Picking up stitches without a visible line: our advanced tips (tested and approved)

Have you ever picked up stitches... and ended up with a wavy edge, an unsightly little step, or worse: a very visible line right at the front? 😅
We know it. We've seen it. We've experienced it. And we've spent years searching for THE clean, clear, seamless method.

Today, we're sharing our in-house technique , the one we use for all Knit-sis patterns.
Promise: after this article, you will never look at your necklines or button bands the same way again.

Why do we get a demarcation when we pick up the stitches?

Picking up stitches is a bit like attaching a zipper to a coat: if you take it too far from the edge, it pulls; if you take it too close, it gapes.

The distinctions appear primarily because:

▪️ We're picking up too many stitches

▪️ or not enough

▪️ or that they are distributed incorrectly

▪️ or that the edge is not regular

▪️ or that we're pricking in the wrong place…

Louise still remembers the first cardigan she knitted as a teenager with our grandmother: “I had a zigzag neckline… I thought it was normal.” 😭
Good news: this is not normal.

The Knit-sis method for picking up perfectly neat stitches

Here is our technique, the one we use on Cardichou , Festi , Marguerite and all our sweaters & cardigans.

1. Stabilize the edge before lifting

An underrated but GAME CHANGER tip ✨
Gently secure the edge with your fingertips or by carefully pulling the knitting to open the stitches. The picking up is even and you know exactly where to insert your needle.

Key takeaway: an “open” edge = a more beautiful lifting effect.

2. Knowing exactly where to stitch for an invisible edge

The secret: aim for the inner strand of the selvedge stitch, never the entire stitch.
We obtain a lift:

▪️ more flexible

▪️ more regular

▪️ sharper

▪️ without small “holes” on the edge

You stitch just behind the front strand of the selvedge stitch → the demarcation disappears.

3. The magic ratio: 3 stitches picked up for every 4 rows

This is THE ratio that our aunts passed down to us, the one that avoids the infamous rippled edge.

Ideal for:

▪️ necklines

▪️ button bands

▪️ the sides of flat-knitted sweaters

When we use a different ratio, we always include it in our patterns… but 3/4 remains the cleanest base.

Key points to remember:
→ Too many stitches = flared edge
→ Not enough = edge that pulls

4. The “slide-pull” technique for even lifting

Each time you pick up 5–6 stitches, pull lightly on the edge to distribute the tension.
This avoids the infamous “bump” in the middle of the band.

A tip inherited from Grandma: “Pick up the stitches like you would clothespins: evenly spaced, otherwise the rope will collapse.”

5. Smoothly close the first row to erase any marks

Many forget this: the REAL secret of the invisible edge is the rank that follows .

What we do:

▪️ Knit the first row more loosely

▪️ Avoid tightening the first stitch

▪️ Smooth the edge with your finger right after

It's this tiny gesture that gives a professional, clean, smooth edge.

How to pick up stitches depending on the type of project

Because yes, you don't pick up stitches the same way depending on the type of project 🤓

On a vest (button bands)

→ Ratio 3/4 + inner strand
→ Pick up an even number of stitches for a more symmetrical border
→ Compatible with Cardichou (our favorite and fluffy vest 🥰)
👉 See Cardichou

On a neckline (round, V, boat)

→ Pick up fewer stitches in the corners
→ Divide into 3 zones: front / back / shoulders
→ Ideal for Strippie and Marguerite
👉 See Strippie
👉 See Marguerite

On a seamless sweater (top-down, bottom-up in the round)

→ Very flexible ratio because there is no "cut" edge
→ Lifting often occurs in a reduced area = tension to monitor
Perfect if you want to practice on a simple model:
👉 See Câlin (beginner-friendly sleeveless sweater)

The most common mistakes (and how to avoid them)

▪️ Stitching too far from the edge → visible demarcation

▪️ Use an approximate ratio → wavy edge

▪️ Tighten the first row → clear demarcation at the change

▪️ Picking up at random → irregular edge

Tip: if you are a beginner, use a needle 0.5 to 1 mm larger.
Yes, yes, really.

Conclusion: Ready to pick up those stitches like a pro?

Picking up stitches without demarcation is a mixture of technique, eye and… a tiny bit of magic passed down from generation to generation.
This is the technique we use to ensure our sweaters and cardigans always have clean, modern and super professional finishes.

Do you want to practice on a motivating, rewarding, stress-free project?
💛 Our top recommendation:
👉 Cardichou – The Cabbage Vest , perfect for getting started and progressing smoothly.

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